The best islands in the Philippines? What to see and do in Batanes

A cluster of islands in the northernmost region of the Philippines is so remote that it is actually closer to Taiwan than most parts of the Philippines.

The islands are located 100 miles north of Luzon, the largest and most populous island in the country and home to the capital Manila. Still, they couldn’t be further from the stereotypical tropical scene of swaying palm trees and white sand beaches associated with the Philippine archipelago.

Imagine emerald hills swept by cattle-strewn winds, picturesque stone cities with flower-lined paths, steep cliffs sinking into a deep sea of ​​shocking white-tipped waves, and lighthouses that stand firm and strong, like the premises themselves.

This is Batanes: a magical and captivating place that looks more like the set of the historical drama “Outlander” than that of “The Beach”.

Composed of three main islands – Batan, Sabtang and Itbayat – that lie between the North Pacific Ocean and the South China Sea, Batanes is usually surrounded by typhoon pardons that form in both bodies of water.

It is also located in the Circum-Pacific Belt, better known as the Ring of Fire, and is prone to frequent earthquakes, which damaged Itbayat Island in July 2019.

Here, the earth is forged by the elements, and in many ways so are the people.

There is an air of mystery that surrounds the indigenous population of Batanes, the Ivatans. Because of their isolation, difficult climate, and difficult landscape, locals have built a society that values ​​trust and real connection.

Unlike the bustling and charming, chaotic campaigns in the Philippines, which can feel more karaoke than an idyllic paradise, Batanes and its people are calm, thoughtful, orderly and peaceful. Warm and sincere, Ivatans seek honest interaction with visitors who wish to learn more about their culture.

The Ivatans live in symbiosis with nature and care for their natural heritage with an almost spiritual fervor. They recognize the earth as the source of their well-being and well-being and are firm about sustainability.

The best example would be the absence of markets in the province; agricultural practices are designed to produce enough food for the population, with very little surplus.

Here, the Christian faith and spirituality permeate everyday life. The word “God” or Ten it is used in many expressions: “You say mamajes!” – o God will pay you it is his way of giving thanks; “God damn it!” – may God go with you it is his farewell; or simply “Do you say?” to ask if anyone is home. Once there, visitors will usually hear “Dius mavidin!” or may God bless you, which is how guests receive.

Unlike most areas of the Philippines, Batanes is sparsely populated.

The 2015 census had only 17,246 people, which equates to approximately 205 people per square mile.

There are strict measures to prevent over-tourism, such as limiting the number of flights to the islands. The area is also subject to the Batanes Responsible Tourism Act, by which the Philippine government declared the province a “community-based area of ​​cultural heritage and responsible ecotourism”.

As a result, travelers can expect to find guest houses and small inns instead of branded hotels.

An establishment really stands out.

The Pacita Foundation, former residence of the late artist Pacita Abad, is a charming bed and breakfast located on top of a leafy grassy slope overlooking the sea.

Built in the traditional stone way, along with whitewashed adobe walls, it is decorated with colorful fabrics, reused furniture and Abad’s vibrant artwork.

His niece, Patsy, who can often be found strolling around the premises with a cheerful smile and a glass of wine, now runs the inn. He recently opened the fabulous Café du Tukon, which serves delicious contemporary interpretations of local delicacies, such as a carbonara pasta topped with salted dolphin fish, called arayu., more than bacon or guanciale.

Batan is the main island of Batanes. Due to the annoying waters and unpredictable weather, it is difficult to cross the Batanes Islands. Fortunately, Batan has a lot to offer and is easily accessible by commercial flights.

It is essential to work with an accredited travel agency, such as IBS Tours and Travels, before arranging a trip. The agency can coordinate a car and be guided to navigate the stunning coastal road that surrounds the island.

Agencies can also arrange stops at notable places such as the iconic Basco Lighthouse and Tayid Lighthouse, the sloping hills from Rakuh to Payaman and the colorful waters of Homoron’s blue lagoon.

It is also worth stopping at small, peaceful towns like Mahatao and Ivana, known for their Spanish churches and bridges, as well as Diura, home to the mystical caste of mystical fishermen.

Weather permitting, you can reach Sabtang Island in a 40-minute ferry ride. The stunning views from the cliffs of Chamantad Tiñan are well worth it, as is the stone village of Chavayan where they make the cow, which are traditional headdresses made with stripped palm fronds that protect working women in the field from the elements.

The only real way to get there is by flying. Flights can range from 80 to 100 minutes and could be booked on Skyjet, Cebu Pacific and Philippine Airlines before the pandemic.

A trip to Batanes must be made in advance and booked through accredited tour operators. The local government is very focused on sustainable tourism and the preservation of the natural and cultural heritage of the province. There are a number of rules and guidelines (such as that there are no bikinis on the beach) that tourists must understand and follow during the trip.

Although the Philippines is currently closed to international tourism, officials last month indicated interest in establishing “international travel bubbles” or travel corridors with strict health protocols, with neighboring countries.

Batanes, which registered its third Covid-19 case in December 2020, is currently closed even to domestic tourists. Local authorities are exploring ways to safely reopen with 14-day quarantines and establish other health requirements.

The “good season” of Batanes runs from November to May. June to October is typhoon season and should be avoided. Travelers are advised to wear a light rain jacket for spontaneous rains and a light sweater for cool nights that can be found on the tops of cold mountains.